Sex on the beach and other transactions

“What are you doing on the prostitute’s beach?” This is the question from a friend we haven’t seen in 15 years when he spotted us on one particular section between Posto 8 and 9 on Ipanema Beach. It hadn’t taken long for us to understand that the beach culture in Rio is purely transactional, but we didn’t realise how extensive it was and how specialised the “territories” can be. Our friend was only 200 meters away, but it was a world apart in tribes.

A beginner’s guide to the beach (according to our own experience) goes something like this:

As you walk up to the beach, you will be approached by sales pitches for cadeiras (beach chairs) and guarda-sol (beach umbrellas) before you even decide where you want to put your foot into the sand. These salesmen work for rental stands run for years by locals. They are called barracas and it’s easy to find your tribe using the flags that fly from each one. UK, US, France, Germany, Rainbow or even a corporate sponsor like something called Hula Hula. But like us, a flag may not be enough information for the finer details of where you end up sitting, so be prepared for anything.

There’s a constant cacophony of call-outs. “Caipirinhas, cervejas, agua gelada, acai, sanduiches, camarao, empanadas, empadas, coco fresco”. Queijo grilled on the spot on a portable barbeque (think grilled haloumi), mate (tea) and limonada in metal drums sold along with sweet or savoury Biscoito Globo. You can buy cigarettes (and if you say no to tobacco, you’re offered the harder stuff), hammocks, sunglasses, board shorts, sungas (swimmers), biquinis, bracelets, anklets, hats, suntan lotion, phone chargers, speakers, cangas (like a sarong, used as a towel), grilled corn . . . the list goes on.

And during the build-up to Carnaval, you even get a parade on the beach.

Coming from Australia, the beaches are not as pristine as what we take for granted. An early morning walk revealed the spoils of a non-stop, exciting day at the breach in Brasil. This is a whole different experience and beautiful in its own way. We’re a bit late to this party as so many of our Australian friends have spent New Year's Eve and Carnaval on Ipanema beach. These weeks have shown us why, though it may not be for everyone.

For a change, we visited Ilha Grande for a few nights. On another day, we UBERed down to Grumari Beach through the newer neighbourhoods of Rio. Those two beach experiences were different, calmer and more traditional. BUT – they were still Brasilian beaches. . . and there was at least one person, carrying some type of product, calling out a sales pitch and securing the next transaction. We bought it all.